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DIY car scratch repair can work extremely well when the damage is small and you correctly identify which paint layers have been affected. A shallow clear-coat mark may only need polishing, while a deeper scratch can require primer, colour and lacquer.
This guide shows you how to assess the damage before choosing the repair method.
A shallow mark that has not cut through the clear lacquer may improve with suitable compound and polishing. If the colour layer is still intact, adding touch up paint can make the repair worse rather than better.
If the scratch has removed colour, the missing paint needs to be replaced. A touch up pen works well for narrow damage, while a brush bottle suits wider localised scratches.
When the damage reaches primer or exposed substrate, the coating system needs to be rebuilt. Bare metal or plastic may need suitable primer before colour is applied.
Do not choose paint from the basic vehicle colour alone. Use the manufacturer paint information and check for possible variants. Registration details can help identify the vehicle and colour information.
Use our vehicle paint lookup. If you need help choosing between a pen, bottle and aerosol, see our complete touch up paint for cars guide.
Wash and dry the damaged area, then remove wax, polish, grease and silicone. Paint needs a clean surface to adhere properly.
Remove loose paint and smooth unstable edges, but do not aggressively sand sound surrounding paint in an attempt to erase a deep scratch. A scratch that has removed colour must be filled with coating again.
If bare metal or plastic is visible, use the appropriate primer where the paint system requires it. If sound factory primer remains in the scratch, additional primer may not always be necessary.
Shake or mix the paint thoroughly, then build the colour gradually. Several thin applications give better control than one heavy blob.
A true three-stage colour uses a basecoat plus a separate pearl/effect layer before lacquer. If your vehicle uses this system, the pearl layer is required for the truest finished colour.
On a basecoat-and-clearcoat system, lacquer supplies the final gloss and protective clear layer. Follow the product instructions for flash and drying times.
Fresh paint may feel dry before it is fully hardened. Avoid sanding or polishing too soon. For many small touch-up repairs, around 48 hours or longer may be needed before optional levelling, depending on temperature and coating thickness.
If a small cured repair sits slightly proud, very careful 2000 grit then 3000 grit wet sanding followed by polishing can improve it. This is optional and carries a risk of cutting through surrounding clear coat.
Read our guide to smoothing touch up paint first.
If the damaged area is too broad for a pen or brush, a colour-matched aerosol can provide more even coverage. Wider repairs also require more masking and blending.
Consider professional repair when there is significant denting, cracked plastic, widespread paint failure, heavy corrosion, damage across multiple panels or a highly visible area that needs a near-invisible blend.
No. Small cosmetic scratches are the best DIY candidates. Structural damage, large dents and widespread refinishing are better suited to professional repair.
It is not a proper automotive repair product. Use a suitable automotive compound for shallow clear-coat correction.
If bare substrate is exposed, suitable primer is often required. If intact factory primer remains, the repair may only need the missing colour and clear layers.
It can greatly improve small damage and protect exposed areas, but a local touch-up is not the same as a full professional spray blend.
Ready to repair the damage? Start with our paint lookup and choose the product format that matches the scratch size.