Lite Kit
- Colour Match Paint
- Primer
- Brushes
- Nitrile Gloves
A complete visual guide to using your Scratch Repair bottle kit correctly — from preparation and colour application to final sanding and polishing. Lite and Pro owners can follow the same core method using the products supplied in their kit.

All three kits use the same core touch-up principles. Pro and Ultimate simply add more preparation and finishing products for a more complete repair.
The preparation changes slightly depending on the damage. Use these quick tips before following the full Ultimate Kit tutorial.
Clean the chip thoroughly and remove loose paint. If bare metal or plastic is exposed, use a tiny amount of primer first. Dab colour into the chip rather than painting a large area around it. Build the depth slowly with thin layers.
Feather any sharp or raised edges and keep the repair inside the scratch where possible. Apply colour in thin controlled passes along the damage. Avoid one heavy coat — several thin layers are much easier to level and finish.
Degrease first and check whether the mark is simply paint or rubber transfer. If the original colour is still intact, Finish Compound may remove or improve it without repainting. If colour is missing, prepare, prime where required and touch in the damaged area.
Apply thin layers and build the repair up gradually. Once the final paint and lacquer layers are complete, leave the repair to cure for at least 24 hours before sanding. Then lightly wet sand with 2000 grit, followed by 3000 grit, and finish by polishing with Finish Compound to restore the gloss. If the repair still feels soft or tacky after 24 hours, give it longer before sanding.
Follow these stages in order. The key is control: clean properly, apply thin coats, allow each layer to flash, and never rush the finishing stage.
Wash and dry the area. Put on your nitrile gloves, then use the degreaser and anti-silicone cloth to remove wax, grease, road film and contamination.
Protect the surrounding paintwork with masking tape. Leave enough room to work around the damage rather than placing a hard tape edge directly beside it.
Smooth rough edges with the supplied sandpaper and sanding block. Feather the edge gently and avoid sanding a larger area than necessary.
Wipe the area clean, then lightly use the tack cloth immediately before primer or paint to lift the final traces of dust.
Use primer where the damage has broken through the original paint system. Apply light coats, allow each coat to flash, then lightly smooth when dry if needed.
Shake and mix thoroughly. Add multiple thin layers, allowing each one to flash before the next. Build the repair gradually until the colour coverage and depth are right — do not try to fill it in one heavy coat.
Apply light coats of lacquer to seal the colour and restore gloss. Again, build it gradually and avoid flooding the repair with one thick layer.
Use the blending solution sparingly around the transition of the completed repair to soften the edge and help it flow into the surrounding finish.
Leave the repair alone for a minimum of 24 hours before any finishing sanding. Cold, damp conditions or heavier layers may need longer. Never sand paint that still feels soft or tacky.
Once cured, lightly wet sand with 2000 grit to level the repair, then refine it with 3000 grit. Keep the surface lubricated and use very light pressure. Finish with the supplied Finish Compound to bring the gloss back.
Restores the damaged colour.
Creates adhesion and a sound repair base.
Adds gloss and protection.
Polishes and refines the final finish.
Removes contamination before painting.
Softens the transition at the repair edge.
Protects surrounding paintwork.
Keeps contamination from your hands off the surface.
Prepares, levels and refines the repair.
Helps keep sanding controlled and even.
Helps remove silicone, grease and residue.
Lifts final dust before painting.
Useful for precise bottle application.
Tell Scratch Repair whether it’s a chip, scratch or scuff and we’ll help point you towards the right method.